What are Vitamin C Derivatives?

We know Vitamin C to be the gold standard ingredient when it comes to antioxidants and skin brightening but L-Ascorbic acid in its true form is a highly unstable ingredient. Sunlight, air and temperature are just some of the things that can set it off and make it unstable. This is why a good vitamin c product should always be packaged well in opaque airless containers. If your Vitamin C serum changes colour e.g. turns brown it’s no longer effective. High concentrations of Vitamin C are also extremely notorious for skin irritation and generally speaking you would also need a high percentage of Vitamin C in order to experience the full benefits of it.

Vitamin C derivatives are different forms of Vitamin C that have been formulated to be more stable but offer the same skin brightening benefits as Ascorbic acid. There is a lot on the market but I will talk about the 3 derivatives I have had the most experience with.


Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) – this a water-soluble Vitamin C derivative with the same skin brightening properties of Ascorbic acid. Even though it’s not as potent as Ascorbic acid, this derivative is less irritating meaning that most people can tolerate it as high (ish) percentages.

I first came across MAP from The Ordinary’s MAP 10% serum. I really love this product because it’s lightweight and hydrating and it worked well to brighten my skin. MAP is always the Vitamin C I recommend to others when they want a good starting point. My full review is here

Ascorbyl Glucoside– this is another water-soluble Vitamin C derivative and it’s considered one of the best derivatives on the market. This one also offers skin brightening and antioxidant benefits as well as boosting collagen synthesis.  This is the type I find quite common in products on the market. You can find Ascorbyl glucoside in Vichy Normaderm Double Correction Daily Care, Avene A-Oxitive Defence Serum and of course The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside 12% which is how I came to know of it and love it.  Remember if it’s been formulated with other ingredients, it needs to be listed within the 1st 5 or10 ingredients in order to truly benefit from it

Read my full review of this serum here

THD Ascorbate– this is a fat/lipid-soluble derivative of Vitamin C which allows it to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. Again you are getting the best of vitamin C without the irritation. I haven’t used a lot of products with this derivate but there are plenty out there. I first came across THD in the Sunday Riley CEO serum and cream. The CEO serum contains 15% THD however I did not like this serum. Read my full review of it here. This year, I used the Peter Thomas Roth Potent C serum which contains 20% THD along with Vitamin E and Ferulic acid. I’m not sure if it’s the higher THD percentage or the combination of other antioxidants but I really liked it and it helped to brighten my skin. My full review of the PTR serum is here


Vitamin C is naturally found in the skin but with ageing and environmental damage, production of it slows down. Finding a well-formulated Vitamin C serum can be quite tricky as there are tons on the market. My recommendation will always be to find a well packaged and well-formulated one e.g. in an opaque airless container and preferably a serum/cream that also contains other beneficial ingredients.

I would recommend the Ordinary MAP and Ascorbyl Glucoside as budget-friendly options. If you want the real deal, The Inkey List Vitamin C is another favourite of mine which is pure 30% L ascorbic acid. My full review is here. This serum is in a waterless formula so it’s slightly tricky to add to a routine and you can experience irritation. In my full review, I explain how and why I mix it with another serum. Be sure to also check out the full Vitamin C range from The Ordinary too.

For luxury options, I recommend PTR Potent-C serum or Ole Henriksen Banana Bright serum which is a different derivative of Vitamin C plus PHA. Sunday Riley CEO is another popular choice although it didn’t work for me

I prefer to use my Vitamin C serums in the morning underneath my SPF in order to get the best possible protection against the sun and the environment however you can also use them in the evening or even twice a day. I personally don’t think layering two or 3 different Vitamin C products will give you more results so don’t be tempted to do that.

In short, find a good Vitamin C serum and start using it!

Let me know your favourite Vitamin C serums!

No7 Hot Cloth Cleanser Review

When it comes to makeup removal, I love something fast & easy which is why for the longest of times, I have stuck to micellar water and face wipes before going into my second cleanse. It really wasn’t until last year I decided to try different types of cleansers e.g. cleansing oils but I always found myself back to wipes. Hot Cloth Cleansers aren’t really my thing and in addition to the No7 Hot Cloth Cleanser, I have only ever tried 1 other one – Liz Earle Hot Cloth Cleanser. I received this product in a goody bag last year from a PR event I attended.

What is it?

The No7 Hot Cloth Cleanser is suitable for all skin types and promises healthy looking bright & beautiful skin. In combo with the gentle exfoliating muslin cloth, it removes dead skin cells and daily grime whilst stimulating circulation


So this has been my makeup remover for the last month. I have noticed the cleanser has a smooth and rich texture with a pleasant scent. One pump gives you a generous amount but I usually use 1-2 pumps and two rinses for my face and neck to remove my makeup.

The cleanser gets to work straight away and it good for complexion makeup. It’s not as effective against mascara as it struggles to remove all traces of it. I tend to use my wipes for my eye makeup then the No7 Hot Cloth Cleanser for the rest of my face. I really like the muslin cloth it comes with. I like how smooth it leaves my skin when used to wipe off the cleanser.

The only con with the Hot Cloth Cleanser is that, whilst it takes off a lot of makeup, it is not deep cleansing but No7 doesn’t advise you to wash your face afterwards. They advise and I quote ‘ ..to finish, splash your face with cool water to close pores and pat dry’. I won’t recommend you do this anyway, whether with this particular product or any other makeup remover, always wash your face afterwards. I noticed this because as I went in to wash my face with my face brush, I saw how much more makeup residue was left on my face, even after two washes with the Hot Cloth Cleanser and I wasn’t happy! imagine not washing your face afterwards!


I had the same issue with the Liz Earle Hot Cloth Cleanser, not been deep cleansing enough so I am not sure if it’s the nature of these particular products in general. I do however like this one better than the Liz Earle. It’s an ok cleanser, it’s nice but doesn’t really excite me

No7 Hot Cloth Cleanser is £10 at Boots

No7 has been naughty! check out my No7 makeup rant

Catch you later


Formula 10.0.6 So Totally Clean Deep Pore Cleanser Review

Formula 10.0.6 So Totally Clean Deep Pore Cleanser Review

So Formula 10.0.6 has been around for a while but I only heard of them last Christmas when I received the Formula 10.0.6 So Totally Clean Deep Pore Cleanser in a secret Santa gift. So naturally, I did some research and found out they have an extensive range of stuff and it’s very budget friendly. The Formula 10.0.6 So Totally Clean Deep Pore Cleanser is also one of their popular products.

I was confused though as to what I could use the Pore Cleanser for. I am so used to foaming cleansers so I thought this was some type of deep cleansing toner so I used it for that for a while but I found out it’s a non-rinsing cleanser and that’s when my “love” for it began (lol)

Formula 10.0.6 So Totally Clean Deep Pore Cleanser is a non-rinse cleanser and it wipes away dirt, excess oil and cleans pores. They also say it will exfoliate skin to help keep it super clear and healthy looking.


There’s a lot of pros and cons to this product and I understand why it may not work for everyone or people don’t like it.

The cleanser works. Period. I use it on lazy skincare routine days when I want to ensure all my makeup is off and my skin is clean but I don’t want to go through the hassle of washing my face etc. this cleanser will catch the last bits of makeup and dirt and leave your skin clean. I also like the fact that it has lactic acid which is a BHA to help exfoliate the dead skin cells.  On the other hand, the formula contains alcohol

On the other hand, the formula contains alcohol, in fact, it’s the 1st ingredient (2nd is water). The formula is also quite drying on the skin and I suspect it may be because of the alcohol. The scent of this product is super strong and overpowering. It has made my eyes water before. It’s almost strong as nail polish remover and a small amount is still strong and it’s a lingering scent. It’s slightly tingly and feels like a burning sensation too. I do follow this up with a water mist like Avenue thermal spring water mist to help balance and soothe my skin.


It’s a bittersweet experience for me with the Formula 10.0.6 So Totally Clean Deep Pore Cleanser. On one hand, it saves time and provides a quick and easy solution to cleanse your skin. The no-rinse formula is excellent and for me, it’s the first product of this type. However, the scent and ingredients are unpleasant and can easily put people off. I don’t use this as often as I would have liked to but I do find it quite convenient sometimes.

I won’t recommend it for any other skin type except for oily skin types but I heard there’s another more forgiving formula of the cleanser too. Definitely stay away if you do not like strongly scented skincare products. I don’t think this will suit sensitive skin types. I’m happy it hasn’t caused any breakouts as I have read some reviews of it been too harsh on some people’s skin and causing breakouts. I will also recommend following this up with a water mist to help soothe your skin


It’s available in boots

What do you think? Do you love this product?

My Morning Summer Skincare Routine

Hey guys, I hope you are well. We are enjoying a good weather spell here in London and I am living for it!

I thought I would share my summer skincare routine as I noticed last summer my skin tends to change ever so slightly and I reach for different products to keep my skin in check. My skin gets slightly oilier in the summer, plus my pores are easily clogged and I tend to break out easily (don’t get me started about the heat causing texture on my skin) so I have to work harder in the summer to help my skin.

I also realised I haven’t shared my morning skincare routine with you guys. My morning routine features a few different products to my evening skincare routine PLUS it’s quicker. Hopefully, this gives you some ideas on now to start your own morning routine or some products to try. All reviews will be linked too 🙂

A Bit about my skin

I have normal to combination skin type. This means my tzone is oily and the rest of my face is normal- not too oily or dry. My main issue is hyperpigmentation (read all about that here) so all my routines and products are geared to evening and brightening my skin tone.  More info on skin types here

My Daytime Summer Skincare Routine

Face Wash

I usually wash my face when I’m in the shower with my Black Soap Shower Wash or whichever shower gel I’m using atm.


Superdrug Naturally Radiant Glycolic Acid Daily Cleansing Pads Review

I follow this up with the Naturally Radiant Glycolic Pads. This helps to retexture my skin and cleanse my pores. Check out my review here


After this, I go in with my morning serum. I chose the Boots Light Hydration Boost Serum because it does exactly that. its super light and absorbs easily and quickly without an oily residue. It also leaves my skin soft. Before this, I was using the Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid Serum. ( review here)

The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid Serum Review



I am back to using my favourite moisturiser, The BodyShop Vit C Daily SPF 30 Moisturiser. It leaves my skin glowy and the added SPF helps to protect my skin from the sun. I never leave the house without SPF

If I am wearing makeup that day, I will stop here and follow with a primer then my normal makeup routine. These days I am really enjoying my skin and not wearing makeup everyday to work. This allows my skin to breathe plus getting ready is so much quicker!

Finishing Serum

I like to use a second serum after my face moisturiser. My second serum of choice is the Body Shop Vit C Skin Reviver. This stuff smells so good and the texture is very similar to that of a primer. I find it blurs pores and smoothes the skin. Finishing serums are not necessary but I love using them when I’m not wearing any makeup to help blur my pores and smooth my skin. The serums I use here always have a primer –like consistency/texture to help do that. Before this, I was using the Paula Choice Skin Balancing Antioxidant Serum with Retinol this was the serum that got me hooked on finishing serums

Face Spritz

So after serum-moisturiser-serum, (I usually get dressed) I use a face mist over it. I love mist my face with the Pixi Wake Up Mist. This is so refreshing and leaves my skin looking energized. My full review is here. Again totally unnecessary but I love misting my face.

I finish my routine with some lip balm and I am ready to go. You may have read that and thought no eye cream/ serum?! Well, I HATE the current one I have lol and I haven’t gotten round to getting a new one so atm I go without. I will be sharing which eye cream it is soon and my full thoughts on it!


During the day

During the day, I will lightly mist my face with an SPF mist just to top up my SPF protection. I use the Garnier Moisture Bomb Protecting Hydrating Mist. I have to be careful with this though because it tends to leave a white cast if I over mist.


So that’s it, folks. My simple daytime summer skincare routine! This routine takes about 10 mins or less and it’s been effective in keeping my skin moisturised throughout the day. I will be sharing my summer evening routine soon too as I have introduced some new products. In the meantime, check out my reviews on the products mentions and catch me on insta as I share more products and tips on there

With love